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Monthly Archives: March 2013

Torta al Testo

Food History, Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes March 26, 2013 Comments: 7

Torta al testo filled with stracchino and arugula

Torta al testo is a traditional flatbread sandwich from Umbria stuffed with vegetables, cheeses and cured meats. The torta is cooked on a heavy testo, a circular iron griddle placed directly on the stovetop (long ago, the disc was made from clay and placed over coals in the fireplace).

An iron “testo” or “panaro”

When I was a student in Perugia with about 10,000 Lira per day to spend on food (about $5 USD back in the pre-Euro days), I regularly frequented a hole-in-the-wall Forno on a narrow cobblestone street near the university that specialized in this savory regional specialty. Each day after classes, I ordered a torta al testo for lunch and brought it up to Corso Vanucci, the wide pedestrian-only promenade in the centro storico that was ideal for people-watching. My favorite filling for these fluffy, oiled flatbreads was peppery arugula , sweet pacchino tomatoes and creamy stracchino cheese. Last summer, during a mini-break from Abruzzo, we visited Umbria, and I returned to Perugia for the first time since 1997. I dragged my husband and three sons around the maze of backstreets behind the university for nearly half hour in search of my beloved Forno. I resigned myself to the fact that I wouldn’t find my old haunt, picked up some pizza al taglio for my hungry kids and set off for Gubbio, where we were staying for a few days. The next day, as we were exploring the lovely medieval town, I asked a local shopkeeper from whom I purchased a testo (called a panaro in Gubbio) where we could enjoy a good torta al testo (which, incidentally, is called crescia in Gubbio) for lunch. They sent us to Osteria dei Re, a charming osteria and wine bar with al fresco dining in a picturesque piazza, where we were treated to the torta al testo of my memories.

Here’s an easy recipe that you can prepare in your favorite well-seasoned cast-iron skillet. Prepare the dough in the morning and enjoy them for lunch or refrigerate the dough overnight and simply bring it to room temperature prior to griddling the flatbreads (the uncooked dough stays very well – How do I know this? Because I was in the process of making the flatbreads for a play-date luncheon when my five-year old broke his collarbone! The remainder of the dough went in the fridge and I prepared it the following day with his favorite filling of fresh mozzarella and tomatoes!). Once griddled, the flatbreads should be enjoyed very soon after you prepare them. They tend to become stale rather quickly. If you need to wait, wrap them tightly in plastic after they cool off and reheat in a whole oven prior to serving and filling. When this crazy Northeast weather finally warms up, I’ll try to cook them on the stone piastra I have for my outdoor grill.

Torta al Testo

From Majella Home Cooking ©

Serves 4

For the Torta:

1 tsp. active dry yeast
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. sea salt
2-3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Ideas for fillings:

Stracchino or taleggio cheese and baby arugula
Sauteed greens (spinach, chicory, chard, broccoli rabe, etc.) with grilled or pan-fried sausage
Tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil
Grilled vegetables
Italian oil-packed tuna and sun-dried tomatoes
Speck and fontina
Prosciutto and shaved Parmigiano or mozzarella di bufala
Mortadella
Nutella and bananas (find me something with which Nutella doesn’t pair well!)

In a small bowl, stir together yeast and ½ cup of hot water. Let it sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Combine flour and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Stir 1 tablespoon of olive oil into the activated yeast mixture and with the food processor running, pour it in. Process until a dough forms (i.e., when the ingredients no longer adhere to the sides of the bowl – if the dough is too dry, add some additional cool water, one tablespoon at a time until this happens). Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead for about 5 minutes. Form the dough into a ball and transfer to a large oiled bowl. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise for about 1½ hours in a warm place.

Punch the dough down (the dough should have doubled in size) and divide it into two balls. Lightly flour one piece of dough and, using a rolling pin, roll it into a 9″ disc. Place the disc on a floured baking sheet, poke it all around with a fork (this will prevent too many air bubbles during cooking) and repeat with the remaining dough.

Rolled-out torta dough

Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a 10-12″ cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Working in 2 batches, cook each dough disc, flipping occasionally, until light brown on each side, about 8-10 minutes total.

Griddling the torta

Lay one of the flatbreads on a cutting board, add your desired filling, place the other flatbread on top, and with a serrated knife, cut the torta into 8 wedges. Drizzle with a little bit more oil and serve.

Buon appetito!

Torta al testo with tomatoes and fresh mozzarella

Imperfect Little Ears

Food History, Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes March 22, 2013 Comments: 6

A few years ago, my family and I stayed at a masseria that sits on a vast olive grove in Puglia, between the lovely white city of Ostuni and the Adriatic Sea. The food was positively sublime; the accommodations, on the other hand, were of the more rustic variety. I think my husband and I will always remember it as the smallest hotel room ever to accommodate a family of five. (The antique lamp broken by our then four-year old son Mikey will likewise not be forgotten.) Every morning, we were treated to eggs collected from the property’s hen house and fried in the vibrant green olive oil produced by the farm. For dinner on our last night, Signora Anna prepared homemade orecchiette, Puglia’s famous little ears made of only semolina flour (which is made from Durum wheat, one of Puglia’s most important crops), salt and water, dressed in a sauce of tomatoes and olives from the farm. Nothing I say could ever do justice to that perfectly rustic dish. Throughout the meal, my husband and I shamelessly reminded our sons to leave room for dessert in order to dissuade them from eating too much of the pasta. The next morning, before check-out, I entreated la signora for a quick orecchiette tutorial and she was kind enough to demonstrate her dizzying “thumb-flicking” technique. I make many types of fresh pasta, but orecchiette are hands-down my favorite.

View of Ostuni, “La Citta’ Bianca” from the masseria

Orecchiette con le Cime di Rapa

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking ©

Serves 6

Fresh orecchiette have a toothsome texture and unique hybrid flavor between dried and fresh pasta (they’re made from semolina, water and salt – eggs, once considered a luxury, are not used in traditional pasta-making in Puglia). The most classic preparation – and my personal favorite – for this quintessentially Pugliese pasta is to serve them with a condimento of broccoli rabe (also known as rapini or cima di rapa), garlic and anchovies, topped with toasted breadcrumbs (cheese was another luxury for Southern Italian peasants).

For the orecchiette:

1 cup warm water (105-115 degrees)
1½ teaspoons of sea salt
2½ cups semolina flour (or Durum wheat flour)
All-purpose flour for the work surface

For the condimento:

2 lbs broccoli rabe, stems trimmed, and cut into 2-inch pieces (leaves and florets)
5 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing at the end
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
3-6 salt-packed anchovies (depending on how strong an anchovy flavor you’d like)
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Toasted breadcrumbs or grated cheese for serving

MAKE ORECCHIETTE: Stir together water and salt in a large bowl (or in the bowl of a stand mixer) until the salt has dissolved. Add semolina in a stream, beating with an electric mixer at medium speed until a stiff dough forms, about two minutes. Transfer dough to a lightly-floured (with all-purpose flour) work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 6 minutes. With a knife, divide dough into 10 pieces and cover with a large overturned bowl for at least 30 minutes. Line 4 trays with a dry kitchen towel (not terry cloth) dusted with semolina. Leaving the remainder of the dough covered, roll one piece of dough into a long rope about ¾ inch thick. Cut the rope into ¼ inch pieces. Dust your thumb with some flour and press down on each piece of dough, pushing away from you and twisting (flicking) your thumb slightly to form an indented curled shape like a little ear. Transfer formed orecchiette to the lined trays and repeat with remaining dough. Allow the orecchiette to dry for at least 30 minutes before cooking or freezing. (They freeze extremely well. Place the trays directly in the freezer and transfer the orecchiette to ziploc bags.)

Shaped orecchiette

PREPARE ANCHOVIES: Hold the anchovies under cold running water and gently rub off the salt with your fingers. Pat them thoroughly dry with paper towels and transfer them to a cutting board (preferably not a wooden board so that the smell won’t permeate the wood). Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make a small incision along the bottom side and run your knife along the length of the anchovy. Gently peel back the top portion of the anchovy to reveal the backbone on the bottom portion. With the tip of your knife, gently remove the backbone and cut off the tail. Finely chop the anchovy fillets or mash them to a paste in a mortar and pestle.

If the flavor of salt-packed anchovies is too strong for you, you can soak them in milk for a few hours in the refrigerator after rinsing them to remove the salt. Rinse the anchovies again to remove the milk before filleting them.

MAKE CONDIMENTO: Set olive oil over medium-low heat in a wide skillet until shimmering. Add the cloves of garlic, stirring occasionally until the garlic is browned on all sides. Remove the garlic from the oil and discard or reserve for another use. Add the chopped anchovies to the oil, lower the heat and, stirring frequently, allow them to cook until they seem as if they’ve dissolved or become part of the oil. Turn off the heat and add the crushed red pepper, if you’re using it. Reserve until you’re ready to dress the pasta.

Salt-packed anchovies

COOK AND DRESS THE ORECCHIETTE: Place a large pot of salted water to boil. When the water has reached an active boil, shake the excess flour from the orecchiette in a colander, add the pasta to the pot and return to a boil. (Meanwhile, set the skillet containing the anchovies over medium-low heat.) With a ladle, reserve a cup of the pasta cooking water (even if you don’t use it all). After the pasta has cooked for 4 minutes, add the broccoli rabe to the pasta pot and allow them to cook for one minute. Drain the pasta and greens and add them to the skillet that contains the anchovies, along with about ½ cup of the pasta cooking water (or more if it appears too dry). Toss well and allow it to simmer for about minute. Turn off the heat and transfer to a large serving bowl. Drizzle with some more olive oil and serve with grated cheese or toasted breadcrumbs. Buon appetito!

An Italian Kid on an Irish Day in America

Musings & Anecdotes March 17, 2013 Comments: 7

When I was in Catholic elementary school, the majority of my classmates were Irish-American. My first grade teacher, Ms. Hanafin, was a proud Irish woman who zealously began decorating for St. Patrick’s Day the day after Valentine’s Day. On the morning of March 18, 1983, Ms. Hanafin asked her pupils to take turns telling the class what they had eaten for dinner the evening prior. One by one, each of my classmates answered, “corned beef and cabbage” or “corned beef and potatoes” or “Irish soda bread.” As my turn approached, I began to panic. Should I lie and say that I enjoyed the same St Paddy’s Day meal as the rest of my classmates? But this was Catholic school…I’d be breaking a commandment if I lied! When it reached my turn, and Ms. Hanafin asked, “Michelle, what did you have for dinner last night?”, I nervously answered, “Ravioli.” An expression of horrified disappointment crossed her face as she somewhat hysterically (at least that’s how I remember it), said to me, “Ravioli??? You can’t eat ravioli on St. Patrick’s Day!” My anxiety turned to defiance, and I matter-of-factly responded, “But I’m Italian.” My new resolve gave way to embarrassment as the whole class laughed, but after bristling for a moment, Ms. Hanafin moved on to the next student, who obediently answered, “corned beef and cabbage,” although I’m pretty sure he only said it to avoid the same humiliation I had endured – his parents were Lebanese.

So since the saying goes that everyone is Irish today, I wish you all a Happy St Patrick’s Day…just forgive me if I’ll be eating ravioli.

Polpettone v. Meatloaf

Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes March 14, 2013 Leave a comment

Polpettone from Naples stuffed and rolled with ham and cheese and served with roasted peppers and baby arugula

Meatloaf is an iconic American comfort food which, admittedly, I have never eaten. My Sicilian mother simply did not do meatloaf and whenever I dined at my “American” friends’ homes, their moms inevitably prepared (their version of) “Italian” food for me. Please forgive me if I come off sounding unappreciative, but I would have much preferred an excellent meatloaf than mediocre Italian food that could never compete with my mother’s (I know how bad I sound…sorry). Even in college, when I went home with roommates whose families lived nearby for a home-cooked meal, lasagna was ALWAYS served to me. With the best intentions, my friends’ mothers kindly said, “I thought I’d make you a dish to remind you of your mother’s cooking.” What was I supposed to say in response? “This is NOTHING like my mother’s food!! Why couldn’t you just make me meatloaf???” Of course not, so I politely thanked them, told them their food was delicious and ate it as best I could.

It wasn’t until I avidly began cooking and studying Italian cuisine that I discovered polpettone, the Italian version of meatloaf. The Florentines have their interpretation with carrots, onions, celery, prosciutto and cheese, but I particularly love this Neapolitan version inspired by the great cookbook author, gastronome and fellow Italian food purist, Giuliano Bugialli. Let me know how it compares to meatloaf.

Polpettone di Carne

Adapted by Majella Home Cooking from Foods of Naples and Campania by Giuliano Bugialli

Serves 4-6

2 slices white bread, crusts removed, roughly torn into one-inch pieces
1/2 cup milk
20 sprigs Italian parsley, leaves only
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 1/2 pounds ground beef (I used 90% lean ground sirloin)
4 tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 teaspoon of salt and several grindings of freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
6 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 pound boiled ham (or mortadella), sliced about 1/4-inch thick, then cut into thin strips
About 2 tbsp. flour
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 egg white, lighten beaten

Soak the bread in the milk in bowl for 30 minutes. Transfer the soaked bread with all the milk to a small saucepan, and set the pan over low heat. Cook the bread, breaking it up in the milk and mixing constantly with a wooden spoon until a very smooth paste forms, about 10 minutes. Let it rest until cold, about 30 minutes. (Making a paste from the bread, instead of adding the bread when it is just soaked, makes the meat loaf lighter.)

Finely chop the parsley and garlic in a food processor. Add the meat, parsley mixture, Parmigiano, and bread paste in a large bowl and mix very well. Season with salt and pepper and add the eggs. Mix again to be sure all the ingredients are well combined.

Transfer the mixture to a piece of parchment paper. Shape it into a rectangle about ¾-inch thick. Distribute the mozzarella cubes over the mixture and scatter the ham on top.

Distribute the ham and cheese evenly over the meat mixture

Holding the parchment paper on the narrow side, use it to roll the meat around the cheese and ham stuffing into the shape of a salami. Makes sure to seal the ends of the meatloaf with the meat to prevent the cheese from oozing out during cooking. Lay the parchment paper flat again, and sprinkle the flour all over it. Roll the loaf in the flour to coat it evenly.

Rolling the polpettone with parchment paper

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Spread the butter in a glass or ceramic baking dish (ovenproof), then pour in the oil. Carefully transfer the meat loaf to the baking dish. Then, with a brush, coat the meat loaf with the egg white. Bake for 30-35 minutes in the center rack of the oven, basting occasionally with the pan juices

Polpettoni (2 of them!) ready for the oven

Remove the dish from the oven. Transfer the meat loaf to a cutting board, and let it rest for at least 15 minutes. Cut it into 1-inch thick slices. Buon appetito!

Serving suggestion: This is a rich dish and is well-served by a light, acidic side dish to cut the fattiness. I served it with an insalatina of baby arugula and roasted peppers (I roasted 10 red and yellow bell peppers and marinated them for a few hours (or overnight if possible) with ½ cup red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt and several grindings of black pepper) and drizzled it with freshly squeezed lemon and olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt.

I Heart Saffron

Food History, Recipes March 10, 2013 1 Comment

My take on Ristorante Nino’s pasta with zucchini, sausage & saffron

A few years ago, I enjoyed an incredible pranzo at the lovely Ristorante Nino in Chieti, a small city perched on a hilltop between the mountains and sea. The highlight of my lunch was a riff on the Abruzzese classic, Spaghetti all’Aquilana, a regional specialty which prominently features prized Zafferano Dell’Aquila from Navelli, as well as zucchini and its blossoms. The addition of raw egg yolks and grated cheese at the end of cooking produces a rich yet delicate sauce that beautifully coats the pasta (this technique is found in many dishes in the Central Italian regions of Abruzzo, Le Marche and Lazio). Nino’s version also included crumbled sausage, which gave the dish a rusticity that is perfect for home cooks who wish to serve a hearty pasta dish as a piatto unico for dinner. My take on the recipe is set forth below. Buon appetito!

Additional Information:

The tradition of cultivating saffron in Navelli began in the 13^th century and Zafferano Dell’Aquila, named for the region to which the village of Navelli belongs, is considered by many chefs to be the best in Italy. Awarded DOP status by the European Union in 2005, the saffron trade in Navelli consists of a cooperative of families who have been harvesting the spice for generations. My friends at Life in Abruzzo wrote a wonderful article about Navelli’s saffron harvest: http://www.lifeinabruzzo.com/navelli-saffron-queen-the-power-bling/

Saffron threads from Navelli

Pasta con Zucchine e Salsiccia

From Majella Home Cooking ©

Serves 4 as a main course

1 pound pasta (virtually any shape, long or short, will work)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3/4 lb Italian pork sausage, casings removed
1 shallot or small onion, finely chopped
1 pound zucchini, trimmed, and cut into one inch discs or half-moons, or, if you’re using a longer pasta such as spaghetti, into matchsticks, approx. 3 inches long and ¼ inch thick
½ cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon of saffron threads, crushed in a mortar & pestle and soaked in 1 cup of hot water
Salt and pepper
2 egg yolks from very fresh eggs, whisked together with 1/4 or more of grated Pecorino (traditional in Abruzzo), Grana Padano or Parmigiano cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a wide sauté pan, add one tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the sausage and break up any large pieces with the back of a wooden spoon, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. When the sausage is browned, about 6-8 minutes, using a slotted spoon, remove sausage, to a bowl. Add the other tablespoon of olive oil, lower heat to medium low, and add the shallots to the pan, along with ½ teaspoon of salt, stirring often. Cook for about 4 minutes, or until the shallots are golden, then add the zucchini, season with a large pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper and raise the heat to medium-high. Stir frequently and cook until the liquid released by the zucchini has evaporated. Add the reserved sausage and its accumulated juices to the zucchini as well as the white wine and turn the heat up to high, stirring often, until the wine has evaporated. Add the saffron-infused water and allow to simmer on medium-low heat until the liquid has reduced by about half. Turn the heat down to low until the pasta is ready. Meanwhile, add the pasta to the pot of boiling water and cook according to package instructions minus one minute. While the pasta is cooking, add 1/2 cup of pasta cooking water to the egg yolk-and-cheese mixture and whisk rapidly. Set aside. Drain the pasta, reserving ½ cup of pasta cooking water, and add both the pasta and reserved water to the zucchini and sausage mixture and stir well. Raise the heat and continue to simmer until the water has evaporated and the pasta and sauce are well-combined. Remove from the heat and add the egg yolk-and-cheese mixture to the pasta, tossing quickly and vigorously until the pasta is fully coated. Sprinkle with additional grated cheese and salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately. Buon appetito!

Inspired Thanks

Musings & Anecdotes March 7, 2013 Comments: 13

What inspires me…

I was recently nominated by a fellow blogger – Travel. Garden. Eat. – for The Very Inspiring Blogger Award. This particular award means a great deal to me because for so many years, inspiration is the very thing that was absent from my life. I had love, health, family and friendship, but no inspiration. Although lucrative, my career as a corporate attorney left me feeling wanting – I kept waiting for that elusive “something more” but was too afraid to seek it out. My decision to finally stop practicing law was the most difficult I have ever made. However, my new career cooking and writing and teaching about Italian food inspires me to learn more, do more and be more.

So to accept this award, I must follow four simple rules (listed in bold):

1. Display the award logo on your blog

very-inspiring-blog-award20121

2. Link back to the person who nominated you

My heartfelt thanks to Travel. Garden. Eat. (http://travelgardeneat.com/) for including me on its list of “Very Inspiring Bloggers” — Kat and I are kindred spirits when it comes to the “travel” and “eat” part… and I’m counting on her to help me with the “garden” bit! I’m so fortunate to have found your smart, witty and creative blog. Thank you for acknowledging mine.

3. State 7 things about yourself

I’m a hopeless romantic and my favorite love story is from Canto 5 of Dante’s Inferno, the story of Paola Malatesta and Francesca da Rimini, the star-crossed lovers trapped in an eternal whirlwind in the second circle of hell, doomed to be forever swept through the air just as they allowed themselves to be swept away by their passions. “Galeotto fu ‘l libro e chi lo scrisse: quel giorno più non vi leggemmo avante.”
I am an only child and have three little boys of my own (ages 7, 5 & 3).
I am passionate about fresh, handmade pasta — among my favorites to make are tajarin, corzetti, orecchiette, cappellacci di zucca and gnocchi.
Jane Austen is my favorite author. I’ve read her books more times than I can count and wrote my college thesis on “The Vilification of Motherhood in Jane Austen’s novels.”
Michelangelo’s Pieta’ in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome brings me to tears each time I see it.
My mother’s Arancini – Sicilian rice balls – are my favorite food and I ask her to make them for my birthday every year.
If I were given the choice of traveling only to Italy for the rest of my life or traveling the whole world but never visiting Italy again, I’d ditch the world and take Italy!

4. Nominate other bloggers for this award and link to them.

And now it’s time to pay it forward. I would like to nominate the following bloggers for The Very Inspiring Blogger Award:

Where Lemons Blossom (http://wherelemonsblossom.wordpress.com) – A thoughtful and lovely blog about food, tradition and culture in the beautiful Italian region of Le Marche
Lrntn’s Blog (http://lrntn.wordpress.com/) – A travel photography blog that recently featured unique and captivating photos of Carnevale in Venice
Eat, Play, Love (http://ourfamilyfoodadventures.com/) — A family’s mission to celebrate food as “edible culture” (to borrow a phrase from a friend)
Hang Onto the Vine (http://hangontothevine.com/) – An Italian-American’s exploration of her Abruzzese roots (clearly another kindred spirit)

Thank you for inspiring me and keep doing what you do! Ciao!

Wordless – A magnà!

Wordless March 6, 2013 1 Comment

Just a few of the many amazing foods from the mountains of Abruzzo

Finger-Burning Goodness

Food History, Recipes March 4, 2013 Comments: 3

Agnello a Scottadito with grilled asparagus

Last night, I prepared agnello a scottadito for dinner, a simple Roman dish of grilled rib lamb chops marinated with garlic, rosemary and olive oil. These tender and tasty chops, which should be enjoyed hot off the grill, have been known to burn the fingers of diners in their impatience to devour them, hence the name, “scottadito.” Although there were no burnt fingers at the table last night, I confess that I took less than a perfect photo in my own haste to get them on the table!

In springtime in Rome, the dish is prepared with Abbacchio Romano, the meat of a baby lamb 28 to 40 days old that has just started to graze on the fertile pastures of Lazio but is still dependent on its mother’s milk. (Locals proudly boast that their sheep have a natural, stress-free existence that enhances their flavor and quality of milk fed to their young thus imparting a delicate flavor on the meat.) The meat has such a strong connection to the region, and is so unique in its flavor, that the European Union awarded IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta – Protected Geographical Indication) status to “Abbacchio Romano” in 2009, specifying that the designation applies only to lambs born, bred and butchered in Lazio. In addition to the scottadito preparation, roasted abbacchio al forno is practically synonymous with Easter in Rome, and a similar young lamb dish is traditional in my father’s native Abruzzo, which borders Lazio. Although my husband and I have accepted the torch from my parents and now host Easter, the lamb is still very much my Dad’s job – roasted to perfection with garlic, rosemary and potatoes. I look forward to sharing that recipe as Pasqua approaches, but in the meantime, pick up some rib chops at your butcher — a few minor burns on your fingers will be more than worth it!

Agnello a Scottadito

3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1/3 cup of extra virgin olive oil
freshly ground pepper to taste
10 rib lamb chops
Sea salt to taste
Lemon wedges (for serving)

In a small bowl, stir together the garlic, rosemary, olive oil and pepper. Place the lamp chops in a shallow dish and brush the marinade over them. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Marinating lamb rib chops with garlic, rosemary and olive oil

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill (or an indoor grill pan) over medium heat. Meanwhile, scrape off some of the garlic and rosemary from the lamb to prevent burnt specks of marinade on the meat. Sprinkle the chops with sea salt and place them on the grill rack or pan and cook, turning as needed, until browned and crisp on the outside and still pink and juicy on the inside, about 6 minutes total for medium rare. Remove from the heat and serve immediately with lemon slices. Buon appetito!

Serving Suggestion: I threw some dry asparagus (I find the flavor to be sweeter when I don’t oil them first) on the grill for about 3-5 minutes (depending on the thickness) and rolled them around a few times, until they got a good char, but were still crunchy. To serve, I sprinkled some salt, drizzled my best olive oil and gave them a good spritz of lemon.

Laidback Merenda Fare

Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes March 1, 2013 1 Comment

Meyer Lemon & Olive Oil Cake topped with sliced almonds

My favorite time of a summer day in Italy is pomeriggio, late afternoon, when the scorching midday sun initiates its surrender to the mountains’ evening breezes. My children, rested from their siesta, run next door to fetch their friends in the hopes of resuming the street soccer game I forced them to pause before pranzo. After a frantic match and several shouts of “GOOOAAAL,” they burst through the dancing zanzaniere (the long strands that hang from open doorways in Italian country homes to keep flies out) in search of their merenda, or afternoon snack. I invariably end up with a line of half dozen hungry children for whom I smear Nutella on fette biscottate. I also brew a pot of espresso, knowing that a parent or two in search of their kids will inevitably stop by. This Meyer Lemon & Olive Oil Cake is precisely the type of laidback merenda treat I imagine enjoying with friends on our patio over un caffe’ on a sunny Italian pomeriggio.

Meyer Lemon & Olive Oil Cake

3 Meyer lemons (or 4, if they are very small)
Scant 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil (plus an additional teaspoon or so for oiling the cake plan)
4 eggs at room temperature
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup of sugar
1 cup of flour
¼ cup of almond meal (or replace with an additional ¼ cup of flour)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/3 cup sliced almonds
Confectioners’ sugar (for sprinkling)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and oil a 9-inch round cake pan. Zest and juice all of the lemons over a medium bowl, whisk in the olive oil and set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk the flour, almond meal and baking powder together until evenly incorporated and set aside. Using an electric mixer, beat the eggs and salt on medium speed for two minutes until frothy. Add the sugar in a slow, steady stream and continue to beat, until the mixture is pale and thick. Switch to low speed and slowly beat in the dry ingredients until combined, followed by the citrus mixture until just incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and scatter the sliced almonds on top. Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until a toothpick or cake-taster inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool to room temperature. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar prior to serving. Buon appetito!

Extra two cents: This not-too-sweet cake is also perfect for breakfast, either on its own or with a dollop of Greek yogurt drizzled with honey. Oranges or blood oranges would also work well in place of Meyer lemons.

Meyer lemons are sweeter and more fragrant than regular lemons. My mom described them as “i limoni di Ribera,” lemons from the southerly Sicilian town of Ribera, near her own town of Caltabellotta.

Majella Home Cooking

Monthly Archives: March 2013

Torta al Testo

Imperfect Little Ears

An Italian Kid on an Irish Day in America

Polpettone v. Meatloaf

I Heart Saffron

Inspired Thanks

Wordless – A magnà!

Finger-Burning Goodness

Laidback Merenda Fare

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Monthly Archives: March 2013

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