Monthly Archives: February 2013

Fregola e Ceci

Note the color variations in the toasted grains - cooked fregola has a very toasty flavor

Note the color variations in the toasted grains – cooked fregola has a very toasty flavor

I am positively bewitched by pasta in all of its humble forms. Today’s pasta selection is fregola (or fregula – from the Italian verb fregare, meaning “to rub”), an ancient form of pasta that originated in Sardegna (probably vis-à-vis contact with Arab cultures of North Africa). It is made from coarsely ground semolina grains, sprinkled with warm water to form pellets that are dried and grated, and then toasted. Fregola has a nutty, toasted (almost slightly burnt) flavor and is traditionally cooked like pasta, but may also be cooked in the manner of risotto, whereby liquid is gradually added as it is absorbed. This recipe reflects a hybrid of the two.

Fregola e Ceci

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking ©

Serves 4-6

  • 1 ½ quarts of chicken or vegetable broth
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (plus more for drizzling at the end)
  • 1 medium yellow onion
  • 1 celery rib
  • 1 large clove of garlic
  • 1 teaspoon minced rosemary
  • Peperoncino (optional)
  • 1 pound of fregola
  • 1/3 cup diced pancetta
  • 2 cups canned peeled whole tomatoes (processed into a smooth pulp in the food processor)
  • 1 lb of cooked chick peas (or a 19-oz can of chick peas), drained and rinsed
  • 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
  • Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Heat chicken or vegetable broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm (but not boiling) over a low flame. Place onion, celery, garlic, and peperoncino (if using) in the bowl of a food processor and chop finely. Heat the olive oil in a large cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat until shimmering, then add the onion mixture, minced rosemary, ½ teaspoon of salt and several grindings of black pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onion is slightly golden, and add the pancetta. Continue to cook over a gentle flame for about 3-4 minutes, until the pancetta begins to color, but before it becomes crispy. Add the tomatoes and simmer for about 5 minutes, then add the chick peas and simmer for an additional 5 minutes, until the chick peas soften. Finally, add the fregola and about a quart (two-thirds) of the hot broth. Allow to simmer over low heat, stirring frequently to prevent the fregola from scorching on the bottom. When most of the broth has been absorbed, taste the fregola and if it is still too hard, add the remainder of the broth and simmer until the fregola is al dente – don’t forget to continue stirring! (Add a bit more stock or hot water if all of the broth has been absorbed and the fregola is still too hard.) The finished product should have the texture of a thick soup, without being overly brothy. Add the chopped parsley, a drizzle of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot. Buon appetito!

Fregola e Ceci

Fregola e Ceci

Wintry and Light

Polenta con Ragu' di Gamberi

Polenta con Ragu’ di Gamberi

Ciao! Back from a week in the Dominican Republic where I had limited WIFI access (a blessing and a curse).  Although I’m glad to be home, I can’t help but prefer the balmy Caribbean climate to New York’s wintry chill.  As such, I’m craving foods that are comforting, but not too heavy.  This Polenta con Ragu’ di Gamberi fits the bill perfectly.  Buon appetito!

Polenta con Ragu’ di Gamberi

From the Kitchen of Majella Home Cooking

This is a quick variation of a classic dish from the Adriatic coastal villages outside of Trieste.  The traditional recipe calls for a long-simmered seafood stew spooned over slow-cooked polenta.  This weeknight version calls for a quick shrimp ragout and instant polenta.

Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course

  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 cup quick-cooking (instant) polenta
  • 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt
  • 1 shallot, chopped
  • ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper (Optional)
  • 3 tablespoons tomato paste
  • ½ cup dry white wine combined with ¼ cup of water
  • 1-1½ pounds peeled and deveined large or jumbo shrimp cut into one-inch pieces (I’d recommend 1½ lbs depending on the size of your diners’ appetites. One pound didn’t do it for my family of 2 adults and 3 shrimp-loving little boys!)
  • ¼ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
  • Freshly ground pepper

In a medium saucepan, bring 5 cups of water to a boil with the sugar. Whisk in the polenta in a thin steady stream. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 5 minutes.  (The texture of the polenta should be very soft.)  Remove from the heat, stir in 3 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt. Press a piece of parchment or wax paper directly onto the surface of the polenta and cover to keep warm.

In a large sauté pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and crushed red pepper, if using, and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly carmelized, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and water and simmer over medium high heat for 1 minute. Add the shrimp and simmer, stirring, until just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the parsley, lemon juice and lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. Spoon polenta in shallow bowls and spoon the shrimp and sauce over and around the polenta. Serve immediately.  Buon appetito!

Handmade with Love

Bright yellow tajarin from Piemonte made with egg yolks and often enjoyed with luxurious white truffles from Alba

Bright yellow tajarin from Piemonte made with egg yolks and often enjoyed with luxurious white truffles from Alba

I am passionate about pasta. In my very humble opinion, pasta is Italy’s preeminent contribution to the culinary world. The Italian food scholar Oretta Zanini De Vita wrote, “To me, this heritage is an Italian gift to gastronomic culture on a par with what the Florentine Renaissance gave to art.”

Pasta has sustained Italians for generations, even in the most impoverished areas of the peninsula. The prosperous North is home to the delicate egg-yolk rich “tajarin” of Piemonte and the meat-filled “tortellini” of Bologna while the struggling South nourished its peasants with “orecchiette” in Puglia and “sagne” in Abruzzo, made with only flour and water. While prosperous Northern Italians had the means to enjoy pasta as a “primo” between the “antipasto” and “secondo,” as a teenager, my father used to devour half a kilo of pasta for lunch every day because that’s all his family could afford. (I often wonder how many pounds of pasta I’ll need to cook for my own family when my three boys are teenagers.)

Sagne from Abruzzo - a peasant pasta made only with flour and water and traditionally eaten with beans

Sagne from Abruzzo – a peasant pasta made only with flour and water and traditionally eaten with beans

When my husband and I were last in Florence, we dined at the acclaimed Trattoria Cibreo. Lauded for its creative spin on Tuscan cooking, the restaurant is also known for the chef’s intentional omission of pasta from his menu. Although we appreciated our dining experience, we couldn’t help feel as if something was missing among the elegant courses. After all, what is a truly great Italian meal without even an “assaggino” of pasta?

Please check out my Handmade Pasta Board on Pinterest for some of the various pasta variations I’ve made. http://pinterest.com/majellacooking/handmade-pasta/ (I’ll post a recipe next week.)

Wordless … Valentine Candy

Caramelle di Ricotta -- pasta "candies" stuffed with ricotta

Caramelle di Ricotta – pasta “candies” stuffed with ricotta

Semel in anno licet insanire

My version of sweetened rice fritters for Carnevale

My version of sweetened rice fritters for Carnevale

Once in a year one is allowed to go crazy.

Carnevale is celebrated in Italy from the Epiphany on January 6th through Martedi grasso, the day prior to the beginning of la quaresima or Lent, a 40-day period of self-deprivation, fast and prayer that begins on Ash Wednesday. The days leading up to Lent are a time of indulgence before the penitence, traditionally dedicated to entertainment, music and revelry. Venice famously celebrates Carnevale with extravagant masquerade balls while towns such as Viareggio in Tuscany and Sciacca in Sicily hold parades with elaborate papier–mâché floats. Festivities are held in town piazze throughout Italy and playful mischief inevitably abounds, thus inspiring the saying, “a Carnevale ogni scherzo vale” – anything goes at Carnival.

Like every other Italian celebration, special foods are prepared for Carnevale and i dolci tradizionali di Carnevale typically consist of fried treats, including:

Cicerchiata – A specialty of Abruzzo and other Central Italian regions, la cicerchiata consists of tiny fried balls of dough rolled in honey, formed into rings, logs or individual clusters and decorated with colored sprinkles and slivered almonds. The dessert derives its name from la cicerchia, an ancient legume indigenous to Central Italy, the shape of which la cicerchiata resembles.

Cicerchiata prepared by my talented friend Giulia Scappaticcio of the lovely Country House Casale Centurione in Manoppello (Abruzzo) - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Country-House-Casale-Centurione/191825181578?fref=pb

Cicerchiata prepared by my talented friend Giulia Scappaticcio of the lovely Country House Casale Centurione in Manoppello (Abruzzo) – https://www.facebook.com/pages/Country-House-Casale-Centurione/191825181578?fref=pb

Struffoli or Pignolata – Southern Italy’s version of la cicerchiata, the fried honey balls are called struffoli in Naples and pignolata in Sicily.

My version of struffoli or pignolata

My version of struffoli or pignolata

Chiacchiere – Crispy strips or squares of fried dough flavored with wine or liqueur and generously dusted with powdered sugar. They are popular in regions throughout Italy, albeit by various colorful names: grostoli in Friuli, bugie in Piemonte, sfrappole in Emilia, galani in Veneto, frappe in Le Marche, cenci in Tuscany and chiacchiere in Campania.

Castagnole – Sweet, pillowy fritters that originated in Friuli.

Tortelli o Ravioli Dolci – Sweet fried ravioli or tortelli filled with ricotta, jam or dried fruit. In Naples, a variation called causone napoletano has a filling of sharp pecorino cheese.

Zeppole – The ancestor of the fried dough found at carnivals and street fairs in the US, zeppole are thought to have emerged in Naples in the 1800s and are prepared both with and without a custard filling.

Frittelle di Riso – Sweetened rice fritters from Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna – recipe below :-)

Buon Carnevale a tutti!

Frittelle di Riso

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking ©

Makes about 60 fritters

  • 2 ½ cups Arborio rice
    6 cups of milk
    6 tablespoons sugar (plus more for sprinkling at the end)
  • Peel of one lemon, shaved with a vegetable peeler
  • Seeds from one vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 6 eggs, separated
  • Pinch of salt
  • 3 cups of oil for frying (vegetable, canola or olive oil is fine. I used canola.)

Combine rice, milk, 4 tablespoons of sugar, lemon peel and vanilla and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the rice is tender, stirring often to prevent sticking (all of the milk should be absorbed). Place rice in a large bowl and add beaten egg yolks, flour and baking powder. Stir to combine and let cool, but do not refrigerate. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt on low speed until foamy. Add the additional two tablespoons of sugar in a slow, steady stream and continue to whip the egg whites on high speed until they have soft peaks. Fold the egg whites into the rice mixture until evenly combined. (Prior to adding the egg whites, the rice mixture will be very dense – the addition of the egg whites should make the mixture much looser and appear creamier). In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the oil until shimmering. Drop fritters into the hot oil in tablespoons. Fry in batches (quickly), flipping when one side is golden (not brown). Remove to a plate lined with paper towels and generously sprinkle with sugar while still hot. Serve immediately or allow to cool and serve at room temperature. Buon appetito e Buon Carnevale!

Pasta Velocissima – Super-Fast!

photo(8)

I can’t take all the credit for this recipe – it’s an adaptation of a recipe by Lidia Bastianich –  but it’s one of my favorite fast (as in 20 minutes from start to finish!) one-dish weeknight meals and packs in beans, greens and grains.  The dish reminds me of my law firm days when the earliest I ever got home from work was 8 PM (even later when I was a junior associate).  I usually needed something quick and this was one of my go-to dishes.

Pasta con Pomodori Secchi, Fagioli e Spinaci

Adapted from Lidia’s Family Table

Serves 4 as a main course

Prepare the ingredients while bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil.  When the water begins to boil, add the pasta and start to prepare the “condimento” as follows:

Place the olive oil, the tomato packing oil and the garlic (and red pepper flakes, if using) into a wide skillet and set over medium-high heat.  Cook for about a minute, until the garlic is sizzling.  Drop the sun-dried tomato strips into the pan and let them sizzle and toast for a minute or so.  Ladle 1 cup of boiling pasta water into the skillet and stir well.  Keep the liquid simmering so the tomatoes soften and cook for 2 minutes or so, until the liquid is reduced by half.

Stir in the canned beans, salt, and about 1½ more cups of pasta water.  Bring the sauce to a rapid boil, stirring, and cook at an active simmer for 2 minutes.  Drop the spinach leaves on top and let them steam until they wilt and add another cup of boiling pasta water, until the spinach is cooked, the beans are softened (they may even have disintegrated into the sauce – this will give it a creamy, luscious texture) and the sauce has reduced.  When the pasta is almost al dente (about a minute less than the cooking time on the box), scoop it up with a spider or hand-held colander and into the skillet to finish cooking, adding a bit more pasta water (about ½ cup ; more if the sauce is dry).  Stir to combine and allow to cook together for another minute.  Turn off the heat and toss in the cheese and a drizzle of olive oil.  Buon appetito!

 

Blood at the Party

With all of the photos I’ve received from friends in Italy donning their “Carnevale” best and with Fat Tuesday soon approaching, I’ve been doing quite a bit of research on traditional Carnevale foods and customs.  For Christmas this year, I received an Italian cookbook called Le Ricette Regionali Italiani, a 1,200-page collection of traditional recipes from Italy’s 20 regions, packed with cultural anecdotes and culinary history.  The beauty of this tome is its colloquial recipes calling for ingredients such as “melanzane belle” (pretty eggplants).  One interesting and rather unusual Carnevale dessert recipe from Abruzzo that I found is for “sanguinaccio,” a dark chocolate custard of sorts that calls for “un litro di sangue di maiale appena ucciso” – a liter of blood from a pig that has just been killed.”  More on Carnevale later in the week!  Ciao!

Pomodori al Riso

I just picked up a few packages of Arborio rice to make the traditional sweet Carnevale treats, “frittelle di riso” (recipe coming soon!) and decided to throw together some Pomodori al Riso, tomatoes stuffed with rice and herbs, a dish that is typically part of the Roman “tavola calda.”  They’re obviously best with sweet summer tomatoes, but I found some pretty good vine-ripened tomatoes at the market (plus, their flavor will intensify with roasting).

Pomodori al Riso

Pomodori al Riso

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking ©

Serves 4-8

  • 8 medium, firm yet ripe, vine-ripened tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • 2 tablespoons chopped basil
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • ½ cup Arborio rice
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil (plus more for drizzling prior to baking)
  • Large pinch of sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  Remove the stems from the tomatoes and cut a ¾ inch slice off the bottom (the side without the core), reserving the slices (these will serve as the “cap” for the tomato).  Using a small spoon (with some help from a paring knife if needed), gently remove the pulp and seeds from inside the tomatoes over a medium bowl, until the tomatoes are pretty hollow, being careful not to puncture the flesh.  Transfer the hollowed-out tomatoes to a roasting pan or baking dish.  Add the pulp to the bowl of a food processor (or a food mill) and process until slightly chunky (strain it a bit if it’s very liquidy). Combine the pulp with the remainder of the ingredients and stir.  Spoon the filling into the hollowed-out tomatoes almost to the top (you may have some filling leftover – I happened to have an extra tomato or two so made a few more) and loosely cover each tomato with its corresponding “cap.”  Drizzle with a bit more oil and bake for about 50 minutes or until the skin is crispy and slightly brown and rice is tender, but al dente.  (However, if the rice still seems too hard, lower the heat to 350 degrees and roast for an additional 5-10 minutes.)  Allow to cool for about 10 minutes and gently transfer to a serving plate.  Serve warm or at room temperature.  Buon appetito!

Note: A few will inevitably fall apart, but not to worry, they’re still delicious!

The stuffed tomatoes prior to roasting

The stuffed tomatoes prior to roasting

A Giostra to Remember

The town of Sulmona in Abruzzo is one of my favorite places in all of Italy.  Last summer, my family and I attended the annual Giostra Cavalleresca — a Palio-like festival and horse race that dates back to the Renaissance.   The wonderful travel website Abruzzo Up N’ Down just published a piece I wrote about this one-of-a-kind cultural experience — http://blog.abruzzoupndown.com/2013/02/medievalgiostrainsulmona.html

Sulmona's Lovely Artisanal Confetti

Sulmona’s Lovely Artisanal Confetti

For more information about the lovely (and still off-the-beaten-path) town of Sulmona, “Like” Welcome to Sulmona on FB — https://www.facebook.com/WelcometoSulmona

Dancing ladies-in-waiting during the sflilata - read more at http://blog.abruzzoupndown.com/2013/02/medievalgiostrainsulmona.html

Dancing ladies-in-waiting during the sfilata – check out more at http://blog.abruzzoupndown.com/2013/02/medievalgiostrainsulmona.html

Wordless – Time Travel in Scanno

In the village of Scanno in Abruzzo, there remains a handful of women that wears the traditional black peasant costumes in daily life

In the village of Scanno in Abruzzo, a handful of women remains that wear the traditional black peasant costume in daily life

For more history and travel information about Scanno, check out http://www.lifeinabruzzo.com/skirting-scanno/

Bagni di Lucca and Beyond

Brisbane, Bagni di Lucca and everything in between

Maple&Saffron

Tasting, travelling, cooking...Italy!

madonna del piatto

Italian family cooking

Majella Home Cooking

Regional Italian Food & Memories

Memorie di Angelina

Italian Home Cooking Made Easy

Passion and Cooking

A Taste of ItalianLlife

Due Spaghetti

Dedicated to Italian Food, Wine, and Other Marvelous Things

Edible Queens: The Blog

Celebrating the food culture of New York's most diverse borough

American Food Roots

Why we eat what we eat

DUTCH goes ITALIAN

Travel with me to the unknown Italy!

Hang On To The Vine

An Italian American explores her Abruzzo roots

Adri Barr Crocetti

Italian Food, Family, and Culture

cocomerorosso

Regional Italian Food & Memories

Ciao Chow Linda

Regional Italian Food & Memories

Italia Sweet Italia blog

We are an Italian tour operator based in Abruzzo, the greenest region in Europe. Our aim is to promote the true Italy through authentic experiences

Where Lemons Blossom

The real Italy, as seen from the heart

Travel. Garden. Eat.

Enjoy the good things in life ~ you can always clean tomorrow!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 139 other followers

%d bloggers like this: