Majella Home Cooking

Mandorlata di Peperoni – Finding Sicily in Abruzzo

Musings & Anecdotes, Random Things, Recipes June 17, 2013 Comments: 9

Mandorlata di peperoni, a sweet-and-sour Sicilian chutney of roasted peppers and almonds

The ethnic composition of many Americans resembles a patchwork quilt – I have friends whose children are Colombian and Algerian; Korean, German and Welsh; Dominican, Cuban and Irish. They have (mostly) affectionate anecdotes about the clash of cultures and the challenges of adapting to the customs of the families into which they married.

When I was growing up, my home wasn’t a battlefield of countries, but of Italian regions. My Abruzzese father and Siciliana mother immigrated to the US with their respective families and met in Astoria, Queens in the early 1970s. When they married and had me, I benefited from exposure to the rich traditions of both regions and was fortunate to have learned from them true Italian rather than dialect. On the flip side, my parents were fiercely proud – and more than occasionally competitive – of where they came from. After an argument, they’d mutter politically incorrect stereotypes under their breaths and disparage each other’s dialects (Abruzzese was declared “rough” and Sicilian “un-Italian”).

Their lowest blows were directed at the regional cuisine of the other. From my father: “Non mi piace tutta quella roba dolce che fanno loro” – “I don’t like all that sweet stuff they make.” And from my mother: “Ma cosa cucinano loro? Solo carne arrostita e pasta – niente particolare” “What do they even cook? Only roasted meat and pasta. Nothing special.”

My mother’s hometown of Caltabellotta, Sicily

Even now, after nearly 50 years of living outside of Italy and 40 years of marriage, they still instinctively side with their own. Just last month, when I purchased a few good bottles of Italian olive oil and conducted a little taste-testing, the stuff barely made it to their lips before each proclaimed the oil from his and her respective region the winner.

Because my family has a house in my dad’s village, I’ve spent a lot more time in Abruzzo than I have in Sicily. Although she’d never admit it, I know it ever-so-slightly irritates my mom that my days are now spent with La Majella on the brain at every pass. I can sense it in her subtle suggestions of Sicilian dishes for my catering menus and in her overly-enthusiastic praise of my caponata (a dish my father, of course, deems “troppo dolce” – too sweet).

View of La Majella from my dad’s village of Salle in Abruzzo

My parents’ regional tensions somehow followed me to the Let’s Blog Abruzzo conference earlier this month. In a village perched high in the mountains of Abruzzo, after telling a new acquaintance where my parents were born, she nodded knowingly in response, and said, “Ah, si, sembri molto Siciliana” – “Yes, you seem very Sicilian.” I could literally feel my mother’s beam of smug satisfaction projecting across the Atlantic (and when I posted the woman’s observation to my mom’s Facebook wall, my dad commented in reply, “E’ impossibile” – “It’s impossible”). The very next day, while enjoying a quintessentially Abruzzese lunch of timballo and arrosticini with the brilliant and charming journalist, Judith Harris , I found myself jotting down Judith’s beautiful recipe for mandorlata di peperoni, a Sicilian chutney of sweet peppers and almonds.

So just as mothers have a way of following you wherever you go, Sicily – and by association, my mother – found me in Abruzzo. I know how desperately she wishes my grandfather had never sold her family’s parcel of land that was blanketed in olive, almond and apricot trees and I, too, wish we had a family home in Sicily like we do in Abruzzo. I haven’t been to Sicily during my adult life and lately, I feel as if my mother’s native island is calling me to come and discover my other half. Hopefully, my mom and I will take a trip together next spring, but for now, I’ll have to settle for this Sicilian mandorlata di peperoni, which somehow made its way to me via Abruzzo.

Mandorlata di Peperoni

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking © as adapted from Judith Harris

8 mixed red, yellow and orange bell peppers, left whole
1/3 cup almonds, roasted and coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup tomato sauce
¼ cup golden raisins
A few leaves of torn basil

Preheat a broiler or light a grill. Place the peppers, skin and stems left intact, on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Roast or grill, turning occasionally, until the peppers are shriveled and their skins are completely blackened and charred. Remove the peppers to a paper bag and seal the bag until the peppers cool. Peel and clean the peppers, discarding the skins, seeds, stems, and inner white membranes. Cut the cleaned peppers into ½ inch strips.

To a saucepan, add the peppers, almonds, sugar, vinegar, salt, tomato sauce and raisins. Turn the heat to medium-low, and allow to simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce and vinegar have evaporated, about 5-7 minutes. Remove to a glass or ceramic bowl and allow them to cool. Cover and let the peppers sit for at least 8 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator, so that the flavors meld together. Return to room temperature prior to serving. Garnish with torn basil and a drizzle of good olive oil and serve with crusty bread. Buon appetito!

Girl Power (and Ricotta Crumb Cake) in Abruzzo

Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes June 10, 2013 Comments: 17

Sbriciolata, a ricotta crumb cake from Abruzzo

As I was running out the door last Sunday evening to drive back to Rome at the conclusion of the Let’s Blog Abruzzo conference, my friend Emiliana dell’Arciprete from Abruzzo4foodies handed me a scrap of paper with a recipe for sbriciolata scrawled on the back and marching orders to try it out when I got home. One of many traditional dolci abruzzesi that we sampled at the conference, la sbriciolata is a crumb cake with a creamy ricotta filling and specks of bittersweet chocolate. Emiliana has given me her blessing to share the recipe, but before I do, I hope you’ll indulge me as I tell you a bit about her and a few of the other talented and dynamic women who convened in the tiny hilltop village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio on June 1^st and 2^ndto promote their ruggedly beautiful and largely undiscovered region.

From left: Emiliana, Giulia, me, Katy, Susanna

Abruzzo and its people are said to be “forte e gentile” – strong and kind (or gentle – true in either case). Allow me to add fierce, motivated, energetic, creative, charming, multi-tasking and passionate, to the slew of adjectives that describe the fabulous Abruzzese women who attended the conference. Some of them have Abruzzo in their blood while others have adopted this region of mare e monti as their new home. However, they all share in common a love for, and commitment to, celebrating Abruzzo’s culture, food and traditions with the world.

Here’s a brief profile of a few of the many amazing donne abruzzesi I had the privilege of meeting at the conference. I look forward to getting to know them better this summer.

Emiliana dell’Arciprete, Abruzzo4Foodies – A native of Orsogna, Emiliana’s private tour company, Abruzzo4Foodies offers small-group, guided culinary tours conducted in English, French and Italian that combine sweeping vistas with local, farm-to-table products. I’m especially eager to participate in her Flavors of Abruzzo walking tour of the quaint, picturesque town of Guardiagrele, one of I Borghi Piu’ Belli d’Italia,which includes a visit to the colorful Sunday market, private wine cellars and local gourmet shops. Emiliana’s corporate travel background and love of her region translate into detail-driven tours of artisanal producers who are as committed to preserving Abruzzo’s rich cultural traditions as she is.

Sise delle Monache – quite literally,” nun’s breasts” – from Pasticceria Emo Lullo in Guardiagrele, one of the stops on Abruzzo4Foodies’s walking tour. Photo by Emiliana dell’Arciprete © All rights reserved

Susanna Iraci and Katy Gorman, Welcome to Sulmona – Although neither Susanna nor Katy is native to Abruzzo, they have launched careers dedicated to promoting and sharing the lovely town of Sulmona, perhaps my favorite place in all of Italy, with the world. I’m confident that the Sulmona “Experience Days” that are on the horizon from this duo will be led with the same knowledge, wit and creativity that characterizes Welcome to Sulmona, their online FB community and the only English language resource for visitors to Sulmona and the Valle Peligna. I’m incredibly excited to experience the Giostra Cavalleresca in Sulmona, a colorful and exuberant Palio-esque horse race among the town’s seven sestieri (neighborhoods), with Susanna and Katy, as well as attend a jubilant after-party hosted by one of these sestieri.

Susanna's nephew, Tommaso, dressed as an "armigero" in preparation for the Giostra festivities. Photo by Gianpaolo Tronca.

Giulia Scappaticcio, Country House Casale Centurione Manoppello – Abruzzese by marriage, my friend Giulia is a dynamo. Mother of three young children, owner of a country inn and restaurant in Manoppello, accomplished cook and all-around force-to-be-reckoned-with, Giulia and I connected via Facebook and became fast virtual friends. I am incredibly excited to experience her country hospitality and finally cook with her this summer. Hopefully, she’ll share her recipes for Chitarra alla Trappettara, the most famous of Abruzzo’s traditional pastas dressed with olives and tomatoes, and her divine homemade Mandarinetto orange liqueur, which I sampled at LBA.

The rustic dining room at Country House Casale Centurione Manoppello © all rights reserved.

And of course I must acknowledge and thank the co-founders of blogAway and organizers of Let’s Blog Abruzzo, Sam Dunham and Helen Free, without whom I would have never met these new friends and partners. Sammy is a freelance web marketing and SEO specialist and the author of Life in Abruzzo, the largest English-language site dedicated to travel in Abruzzo. Helen, a teacher, writer and scholar, writes the blog, Hang on to the Vine, dedicated to Abruzzo’s history and culture. Together, they assembled an eclectic and enthusiastic collection of speakers and attendees from around the world. On a personal level, they have been incredibly supportive and generous in sharing their extensive knowledge of Abruzzo and vast network of contacts in the food and blogging worlds with me.

The village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, host to Let’s Blog Abruzzo

Of course, there were some pretty remarkable men in attendance as well – among them, Alessandro and Fabio DiNisio who helm the wildly popular online photography community, Paesaggi d’Abruzzo, whose FB following surpassed 100,000 while we were at the conference, and Fabrizio Lucci of Italia Sweet Italia – Experience Breaks, whose unique cooking experiences in the seaside town of Vasto I look forward to joining this summer (for a first-hand account of Fabrizio’s cooking courses, please check out my friend and fellow Italian food blogger, Ciao Chow Linda’s account of her day on a trabocco).

There are so many other talented women in Abruzzo who are committed to promoting the wonders and flavors of their native or adopted region and I hope to learn more about their fascinating work this summer – to name a few, Rita Salvatore, Abruzzo Lento; Jacqui Dixon, Kokopelli Camping; Francesca Di Nisio, Cantinarte.

But for the moment, let’s focus on that ricotta crumb cake ….

Sbriciolata (Ricotta-filled crumb cake)

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking © as adapted from Abruzzo4Foodies

For the crust & crumb topping:

2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 stick unsalted butter, melted
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the filling:

2 cups whole-milk ricotta
¾ cup sugar
½ cup finely chopped bittersweet chocolate

To make the crust and crumb topping:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and butter and flour a round 9-inch springform cake pan. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt together until evenly combined. Pour the melted butter into the bowl containing the dry ingredients and using a whisk (or your fingers), quickly incorporate the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the beaten egg and vanilla, and again, using a whisk or your fingers, quickly incorporate. Again, the resulting mixture should resemble coarse crumbs.

To make the ricotta filling:

To a medium bowl, add the ricotta and gently fold in the sugar and chocolate until just combined.

To assemble the sbriciolata:

To the prepared springform pan, add three-quarters of the crumb mixture and using your fingers, press down until you have an even, uniform crust that covers the entire base of the pan (not the sides), leaving no gaps or holes. Next, pour the ricotta filling over the crust and with a rubber spatula, gently spread out the filling until smooth and uniform. Finally, scatter the remaining crumb mixture evenly over the ricotta filling.

Bake for 50-55 minutes in the center rack of the oven, turning once during baking, until the crumb topping is golden brown and crunchy. Allow the cake to cool completely on a metal rack (do not unmold the cake until it has cooled entirely or the ricotta will ooze out). Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar prior to serving. Buon appetito!

Extra Two Cents – Using a good-quality artisanal ricotta will only enhance the flavor and texture of this simple cake. You can substitute the chopped chocolate with mini chocolate chips or regular-sized chips that are chopped up a bit. This cake may be made a day ahead and refrigerated.

Summertime Legumes – Insalata di Lenticchie

Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes June 4, 2013 Comments: 6

Insalata di Lenticchie – Lentil Salad

I just returned from a whirlwind four-day trip to Italy for the Let’s Blog Abruzzo conference in the Medici hilltop town of Santo Stefano di Sessanio. I’ve barely had a chance to collect my thoughts about this wonderful experience (my three children are quite literally climbing all over me – one of them is actually standing right behind me as I type). I look forward to writing about the life-changing plate of gnocchi all’Amatriciana I ate (inhaled) in Rome and the amazing Abruzzese women who I met at the conference. At the moment, however, I wanted to share a quick recipe for a summertime Insalata di Lenticchie – lentil salad.

Santo Stefano's prized lentils are not available outside of Abruzzo. The local shopkeeper who sold them to me said that last autumn's harvest yielded an even smaller crop than usual due to dry weather conditions.

Santo Stefano’s prized lentils are unavailable outside of Abruzzo. The local shopkeeper who sold them to me said that last autumn’s harvest yielded an even smaller crop than usual due to dry weather conditions.

A few months ago, I wrote about the special lentils from the village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio and shared a recipe for Zuppa di Lenticchie with a secret ingredient. The lentil is thought to have arrived in Santo Stefano at the time of the Roman settlement, Sextantia, and derives from an old and rare species that is cultivated only in the poor terrain found high in the mountains. After visiting Santo Stefano last summer, I wished I had brought home more of these iron-rich, quick-cooking legumes so decided to stock up this time around.

Tiny organic lentils from Santo Stefano di Sessanio in Abruzzo

Well, I might have gone a little overboard with the lentils. When I went through security in Rome, I was asked to open my suitcase due to the presence of a suspicious-looking item (i.e., a rolling pin). As I dug through my suitcase for the would-be offending object, I removed box after box (after box after box, etc., etc.) of the tiny legumes. The security officer chuckled and asked me, “Ma Signora, che cosa farai con tutte queste lenticchie?” – “What will you make with all of these lentils?”

Here’s his answer:

Insalata di Lenticchie

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking ©

1 small red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole
5 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups of extra-virgin olive oil
10 cups of water
2 heaping cups of small lentils such as Castelluccio or Puy, rinsed and picked over
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 tablespoons of parsley, finely chopped

To a large pot, add the water, lentils, one bay leaf and 1/2 cup of olive oil. Cover the pot and bring to a boil and then remove the lid and lower the heat to a simmer. Meanwhile, to a small bowl, add the chopped red onion and red wine vinegar and let it sit while the lentils cook.

Briefly marinating the chopped red onion in red wine vinegar pickles it and takes away the sharp bite. The vinegar also gives the salad a nice touch of acidity.

Allow the lentils to simmer for 30-35 minutes, tasting as they cook to check for doneness. When the lentils are tender but not mushy (you want the skins to remain unbroken), turn off the heat and drain the lentils well. Discard the garlic cloves and reserve the bay leaf. Transfer the lentils to a shallow dish and scatter the reserved bay leaf and remaining four bay leaves on top. Pour the remaining cup of olive oil over the lentils and very gently combine with a rubber spatula. Add salt and pepper to taste and gently stir the lentils again to combine. Cover with aluminum foil and allow to cool completely.

A cup of oil may seem liek a lot buit the oil marinates the lentils and prevents them from clumping and drying out. They bay leaves impart a mild, sweet aroma.

A cup of olive oil may seem like a lot, but the oil marinates the lentils and prevents them from clumping and drying out. The bay leaves impart a mild, fragrant aroma.

When the lentils are cool, remove and discard the bay leaves and then transfer the lentils to a serving bowl. Using a slotted spoon, remove the now-pickled red onion from the vinegar and add to the lentils along with the chopped celery, carrots and parsley. Stir gently to combine and add additional salt and pepper if needed. Serve immediately or refrigerate overnight and return to room temperature prior to serving. Buon appetito!

Extra Two Cents: For a meaty flavor, add a two-ounce piece of pancetta to the lentils while they simmer and discard after you drain the lentils. This lentil salad is also delicious topped with grated ricotta salata.

Summertime Stuzzicare

Recipes May 20, 2013 Comments: 4

stuzzicare:

To poke or prod (at)
To tease
To whet (the appetite)
To stimulate

(Courtesy of Wikipedia)

“Stuzzicare” is one of my favorite Italian food words. It’s a playful verb, one that reminds me of eating cicchetti in a canal-side bar in Venice, crostini in an enoteca off a piazza in Florence or hand-cut prosciutto before a garden feast overlooking the mountains in Abruzzo. Stuzzichini are snacks that whet your appetite before a meal and Italians have a gift with these little morsels.

Frittelle di Zucchine e Ricotta – zucchini and ricotta fritters flavored with lemon zest and mint

When I entertain guests, I always serve a wide variety of stuzzichini before a big lunch or dinner. They are inevitably everyone’s favorite part of the meal and the line-up always includes some tasty fritti. On Christmas Day, my mother (who is Sicilian) and I prepare fried cauliflower and cardoons, panelle – fritters made of chickpea flour – and cazzilli – fried potato and herb fingers. However, in the summertime, two of my favorite savory fried bites are frittelle di zucchine e ricotta – zucchini and ricotta fritters scented with lemon zest and fresh mint – and polpette di melanzane – eggplant balls flavored with Parmigiano and basil. They’re easy to prepare and unlike most fried foods, can be made a few hours ahead of time and reheated without compromising their quality too much (although, naturally, they’re best right out of the skillet). Accompanied by a chilled glass of vino rosato, they’re perfect pre-grilling appetizers.

Polpette di Melanzane – fried eggplant balls flavored with Parmigiano and basil

A word of caution, however – as with any stuzzichini, these little bites are highly addictive so don’t prepare too many or your guests won’t have any room left for the main course! Buon appetito!

Frittelle di Zucchine e Ricotta

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking © (adapted from a recipe by Mario Batali)

Makes approx. 20 fritters

2 medium zucchini (about 7 ounces each), coarsely shredded
2 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
3 large scallions, very thinly sliced
1/2 cup cow’s milk (full fat) ricotta cheese
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Zest of one lemon (preferably a Meyer lemon)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
1 tsp each of sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
Extra virgin olive oil, for frying
Lemon wedges, for serving

In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, garlic, scallions, ricotta, eggs, lemon zest, mint, salt and pepper. Combine well and then stir in the flour just until incorporated. (You may make the fritters at this point or refrigerate the batter for up to an hour.)

Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. In a large skillet, heat 1/4 inch of extra virgin olive oil until shimmering. Working in batches, add heaping tablespoons of the zucchini batter to the hot oil in a single layer (don’t overcrowd). Fry over medium heat, turning once, until browned and crisp on each side, about 3 minutes total. Drain the fritters on the paper towels and serve immediately, with lemon wedges.

Polpette di Melanzane

Recipe by Majella Home Cooking © (adapted from a recipe by Giallo Zafferano)

Makes approx. 25-30 polpette

2 lbs eggplant
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup fine breadcrumbs, plus ½ cup for rolling the polpette prior to frying
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tsp of salt and several grindings of freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
Extra virgin olive oil, for frying

Preheat the oven to 400°. Wash, dry and trim the eggplant and place whole on a baking sheet lined with foil or parchment paper for easy clean-up. Bake for approximately 45 minutes, turning once, until very soft , and remove from the oven. When the eggplant cools enough to handle without burning your fingers, remove and discard the skin and any large segments of seeds. In a fine mesh strainer or colander set over a large bowl, drain the remaining eggplant pulp of its excess liquid, pressing down on it gently with the back of a wooden spoon. Transfer the eggplant to a large bowl and add the eggs, 1 cup of breadcrumbs, cheese, garlic, salt, pepper and basil. Stir the ingredients together until well-combined. Form the mixture into little balls the size of walnuts and roll them in the remaining ½ cup of breadcrumbs. Set aside the finished polpette on a baking sheet while you continue to form and roll the remainder of the eggplant mixture. (You may fry the polpette at this point or refrigerate them for up to an hour.)

Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. In a large skillet, heat 1/4 inch of extra virgin olive oil until shimmering. Working in batches, add the polpette to the hot oil in a single layer (don’t overcrowd). Fry over medium heat, turning once, until browned and crisp on each side, about 3 minutes total. Drain the polpette on the paper towels and serve immediately.

Make-ahead Notes: The frittelle and the polpette may be fried up to two hours prior to serving and re-crisped in a 350° oven. The polpette may also be frozen in a plastic bag with a zipper for up to three months.

Tagliatelle di Farro for the Seasons

Musings & Anecdotes, Random Things, Recipes May 15, 2013 Comments: 2

Tagliatelle di Farro con Rucola e Pomodorini

Two summers ago, my family and I stayed at a lovely country inn called La Valle de Vento, just outside of the magnificent Renaissance town of Urbino. Perched on a hill overlooking the lush campagna Marchegiana, the inn is owned by a charming couple named Francesco, who manages the inn and on-site vinoteca, and Sara, who helms the kitchen. We happened to be there for Ferragosto, the feast of the Assumption on August 15^th, which is, for Italians, a national day of rest, recreation, and endless feasting. The al fresco dining room was packed with merry-makers, many of whom were friends and neighbors of the owners. To quote a line from one of my kids’ favorite books, Tomie DiPaola’s Strega Nona, “It was a feast to end all feasts” – free-flowing wine, locally produced salumi and cheeses, nutty insalatina di farro, handmade gnocchetti and pasta, roasted rabbit with crispy potatoes, garden vegetables and homemade crostate. The mood was positively buoyant. We lingered over our meal for nearly three hours – how our then 5, 4 and 2 year-old sons managed without a meltdown, we’ll never know, but they quite deservedly earned their second gelato later that evening.

View of the countryside from La Valle del Vento outside of Urbino in Le Marche

Two years later, I’m still thinking about my favorite dish of the day – tagliatelle di farro agli ortaggi – tagliatelle made with farro flour and served with razor thin, barely sautéed sliced vegetables from the proprietors’ garden. Although I’ve cooked dried farro pasta, I’ve wanted to make my own for a while now. I purchased a bag of organic farro flour imported from Italy (Puglia, to be precise – farro is also cultivated in Tuscany, Umbria, Le Marche & Abruzzo) last weekend and consulted a cookbook I purchased in Urbino about the regional cuisine of Le Marche. This recipe called for two parts Tipo “0” flour (all-purpose flour) and one part farina di farro. The result was an incredibly silky and supple pasta dough – not at all sticky – that was a cinch to roll out. Although the slightly nutty flavor, earthy hue and toothsome texture of this pasta would pair beautifully with mushrooms (a combination I’ve had in Abruzzo) or other fall produce, I wanted to play with seasonal vegetables just as Sara had with her glorious garden veggies. So I chopped up some peppery local arugula, roasted leeks with grape tomatoes and finished the dish with grated ricotta salata and eccola! – Tagliatelle di Farro con Rucola e Pomodorini!

Tagliatelle di Farro con Rucola e Pomodorini

Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a first course

FOR THE PASTA

I made the dough in the food processor and rolled it out with a pasta machine, but it can just as easily be done by hand.

3 ½ cups all-purpose (Tipo “0”) flour
1 ¾ cups farro flour
6 eggs
2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil

Fit the regular steel cutting blade in the bowl of the processor. Measure the flours into the bowl and process for a few seconds to aerate. Add the eggs and oil into a spouted measuring cup and whisk until combined. (To minimize the chance of overheating the dough, use eggs right from the refrigerator.) Start the machine running with the feed tube open. Pour and scrape the wet mixture into the bowl quickly.

Let the machine run for about 30 seconds. A dough should form quickly. Let the machine knead the dough for about 10 seconds (no more than 40 seconds total processing). Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for another 2 minutes, until it’s smooth, soft, and stretchy. Flatten the dough into a disk, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time and keep the others covered. Have twolarge trays or baking sheets lined with a smooth (non-terry) kitchen towel that is dusted with flour and keep a few other towels handy. Turn the knob to the widest setting and press the first piece of dough with your hands into a circle or small rectangle and roll it through the machine once.. Fold the rectangle in half, turn the dough so the fold is on the side and roll it through on the widest setting one time. Fold the rectangle in thirds, turn the dough so the fold is on the side and roll it through in the same way six more times. Lay the first piece down, sprinkle with a bit of flour and cover it with a kitchen towel. Put the remaining pieces of dough through the same steps of rolling and folding. Reset your rollers to the next setting and roll your strip through, wide end in first, if it fits, and repeat with remaining pieces of dough, covering each piece with a towel as you go. Reset the machine even narrower and then again at progressively narrower settings, until they spread as wide as the rollers and stretch to 18 inches or longer. Cut the 4 long pasta strips in half crosswise, giving you 8 sheets, each about a foot long and 5 inches wide. Lay these flat on the trays, lightly floured, separated and covered by towels.

Feed one of your wide strips, lightly floured, into the tagliatelle cutter of your pasta machine. Support the strip with one hand, and crank with the other. As the pasta is drawn through the cutter, switch hands so you can catch and lift the noodles as they emerge. Form into nests and lay on the towel-lined trays, floured and separated so they don’t stick together or hang them on a wooden drying rack.

FOR THE SAUCE

3 leeks trimmed, white and light green parts only
1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, rinsed and left whole
3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon of salt and several grindings of freshly ground pepper
6 oz arugula, roughly chopped
3 oz. ricotta salata, grated
Good olive oil to finish

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice leeks in half length-wise and rinse under cold water to remove the grit. Dry with a clean kitchen towel and chop crosswise into ½ inch pieces. In a large bowl, combine leeks and tomatoes and toss with olive oil and salt. Add to a roasting pan or cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicon liner and place in the middle rack of the oven. Shake the pan occasionally to prevent sticking and roast for about 20 minutes, or until the tomatoes are blistered and the leeks are caramelized. Transfer to a large serving bowl.

Bring 6 quarts of water to a full boil and stir in handful of salt. Before adding the pasta to the water, gently shake off any excess flour using a colander or with your hands. Drop the pasta into the boiling water in several batches, stirring with each addition to separate the pieces. Let the water return to a boil, stirring occasionally. Cook for about 3-4 minutes, tasting for doneness. Reserve a cup of the pasta cooking water and drain the pasta into a colander. Transfer the pasta and reserved pasta cooking water to the serving bowl that contains the roasted tomato and leek mixture. Toss well and then add the chopped arugula and toss again. Finish with grated ricotta salata and a drizzle of peppery extra virgin olive oil. Serve immediately. Buon appetito!

Risotto – A Cautionary Tale

Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes May 7, 2013 Comments: 6

Risotto ai carciofi e gamberi

Two weeks ago, we were treated to a delicious artichoke and shrimp risotto at my son’s communion party at Trattoria L’Incontro in Queens, NY. The risotto’s bright yet earthy flavors were an ode to spring. However, when you’re hosting an affair, you never have ample opportunity to enjoy your guests or your food and I left the restaurant wishing I could have truly savored this wonderful dish.

I love trying to recreate restaurant dishes at home and risotto has always been a favorite of mine to prepare. Once you’ve mastered the technique, you can let your creativity run wild. However, risotto is also a dish with a Type-A personality – it demands both organized preparation and undivided attention. So whenever I decide to make risotto, I dutifully set up an organized mise en place (which is atypical of my prep-as-I-go cooking style), pour myself a glass of crisp white wine and immerse myself in the experience of transforming everyday rice into something so creamily sublime.

So what happened last Tuesday evening when I sought to re-create L’Incontro’s shrimp and artichoke risotto for dinner? I ended up with material for a blog post on what NOT to do when you’re preparing risotto:

Don’t make risotto while trying to do a social studies project about education in the 1700s with your second-grader. The art of risotto-making requires and deserves loving attention and focus. It is not a friend to multitasking. Running back and forth between the kitchen and dining room table where my seven-year old was doing his homework led to sticky (literally, in the case of the rice) resentment from both the risotto and the child.

Don’t miscalculate how much stock you’ll need. Always err on the side of heating up too much stock. I initially defrosted 2 quarts of homemade seafood stock and midway through cooking the risotto, realized I needed more. I removed another quart from the freezer and frantically tried to loosen the frozen block of liquid from its plastic container with the heat and steam radiating from the simmering pots on the stove. When I tried to slide the stock into the pot, it slipped out and splashed all over my stovetop.

Check that you have enough of the same type of rice before you begin to cook. Oops. I ended up using one cup of each of Arborio and Carnaroli. It wasn’t fatal (fortunately, it was a combination of those two and not the third type of risotto rice, Vialone Nano, a much smaller grain), but there was a bit of unevenness in cooking time and texture.

Make sure you have enough wine (for yourself!). Enjoying a glass of wine while lovingly stirring is a crucial part of my risotto-making experience. Unfortunately, to add insult to injury, I had to forgo this custom last Tuesday evening as I only had enough wine for the risotto.

Don’t use fresh artichokes because they are a huge pain to clean! (Kidding…sort of…) OK, I don’t mean this one at all. I love artichokes and take every opportunity to make them during their their preciously short season. However, FACT, they are not fun to clean. I used baby artichokes which are a lot less faticoso but still somewhat laborious. However, in my haste, I did not remove enough of the tough outer layers of leaves and had to remove them midway through cooking. (And FYI, I actually think that frozen artichoke hearts would have worked quite well in this dish, but couldn’t justify using them when fresh artichokes are in season.)

Despite these mishaps, the risotto turned out quite good. The rice was creamy yet al dente, the shrimp was perfectly cooked, the artichokes were earthy and the whole dish was brightened by a subtle touch of Meyer lemon zest. I hope you’ll try it – provided you heed my warnings, you’ll have a quite satisfying cooking experience!

Risotto al Carciofi e Gamberi

10 baby artichokes
1 lemon, zested (reserve zest for finishing the risotto)
2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 shallot, finely chopped
½ cup of dry white wine
1½ cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
8-10 cups of seafood (or vegetable) stock
1 lb small shrimp or larger shrimp cut into smaller 1-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Using a serrated knife, cut off the prickly top third of the baby artichokes and discard. Pull back each dark outer leaf and snap it off at the base until you reach the tender, pale green inner leaves. Use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to remove the tough outer layers around the stem and cut off the bottom 1/4 inch of the stem. Slice the cleaned artichokes in half with a serrated knife and then slice into pieces about 1/2 inch thick. Place them in a bowl of water acidulated with the juice of a lemon.

Place your stock into a saucepan, and bring it to a simmer over low heat with a ladle nearby.

Drain the artichokes and pat dry. Heat the oil in a wide and deep heavy skillet or risotto pan over medium heat. Add the chopped shallot and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook until tender, stirring often, about five minutes. Add the sliced artichokes, and stir for five minutes until they begin to soften.

Add the rice, and stir until the grains are well-coated and begin to crackle. Add the wine, and stir over medium heat until it has been absorbed by the rice. Add two ladlefuls of the simmering stock (the stock should just cover the rice and should be bubbling, neither too slowly nor too quickly). Cook, stirring often, until the liquid is almost absorbed. Add another ladleful or two of the stock, and continue to cook in this manner — adding more stock when the rice is almost dry, then stirring — for 20 to 25 minutes.

When the rice is tender but still slightly al dente, add the shrimp and lemon zest along with another ladleful of stock. Stir to combine for about 30 seconds and turn off the heat. Continue to stir so that the residual heat finishes cooking the shrimp, until they just turn pink (this will prevent the shrimp from overcooking). The risotto should be somewhat loose and spread when plated. If it appears too stiff or dry, add another ladleful of stock to loosen it. Season with salt and pepper and finish with a drizzle of good olive oil.

Serve immediately in wide bowls or on plates. Buon appetito!

Digging for Roots

Food History, Guest Writing Contributions, Musings & Anecdotes, Recipes May 1, 2013 Comments: 2

La donna Abruzzese - the only woman permitted to grace the kitchen of the New Orsogna Club in Queens, NY - For the article, go to http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/men-at-the-stove-at-italian-social-clubs/

I found this bronze plaque of “la donna Abruzzese” in the garage kitchen of the New Orsogna Club in Queens, NY. She may be the only woman permitted to grace this kitchen that is run exclusively by its male members. For the article, go to http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/men-at-the-stove-at-italian-social-clubs/

“Why we eat what we eat.” That’s the mantra of American Food Roots, an online project dedicated to uncovering America’s culinary roots. The AFR website states, “Through food, we celebrate our heritage – regional, religious, ethnic, political, familial. We cook and eat to connect with family and friends, as well as with ancestors we never knew.” American Food Roots is led by four talented and experienced journalists whose mission is to share recipes and stories about America’s culinary traditions through articles, interviews, photos, videos and other media outlets.

A few months ago, my friend Helen Free, author of the blog, Hang on to the Vine and one of the co-organizers of the Let’s Blog Abruzzo conference I’m attending in June, urged me to join the AFR community and introduced me to her friend, Italian cookbook author Domenica Marchetti. Since becoming an AFR community member, I have learned about: using a wok to make sausage and peppers; the Easter food customs of a Moravian-American community in North Carolina; the 500-year history of fusion cuisine in Florida; the beauty of using heirloom cooking tools to recreate old family recipes and so much more.

Domenica and the the AFR team gave me the opportunity to contribute to American Food Roots with a story about my father’s Italian social club in Queens, New York and the men who cook there. The article also features a recipe for plangozze al sugo, a rustic and hearty homemade pasta dish from Abruzzo. Happy reading and buon appetito!

Plangozze al sugo

Join the fascinating conversation about America’s culinary heritage. Sign up to become a member of the American Food Roots community at www.americanfoodroots.com